Guidebook updates

[Reader update – 20/11/23] Ethnographical museums in Kruja and Berat have been damaged in the earthquake and are closed, along with the Archaeological Museum in Dulles. The board said it had also been damaged by the earthquake and works to repair it were due to finish in 2023, but there was no sign of current work.

[Reader update – 20/06/24] Museums currently closed for refurbishment: Durres Archaeological Museum; Berat Ethnographic Museum; Berat Edward Lear Gallery; Rresheni Historical Museum; Tirana National Historical Museum!! (like closing the British Museum).

International buses no longer (since early May) depart from the Tirana International Bus Station but from Tirana East Gate Bus Terminal adjacent to the TEG Shopping Centre, accessible by local bus from the city centre or by taxi.

The road from Boga to Thethi is now asphalted throughout.

Chapter 4: Central Albania

Kruja

[Reader update – 22/11/22] p.111. The Ethnographic Museum and teqe in Kruja Castle are currently closed due to earthquake damage.

Chapter 5: The North

Shkodra

[Reader update – 22/11/22] p.119. :  Rozafa Castle is now open daily, 09:00 – 16:00.

Chapter 6: The Southeast

[Reader update – 20/06/2024]

• The SH75 road from Përmet to Korçë is all in good condition. It is newly surfaced from Leskovic to just short of Ersekë although the stretch around Ersekë is still being built, so the old road is still in use.  The final stretch to Korçë is very good.
• The Kamenicë tumulus site is open every day and is free, but the visitor centre is closed.
• The Antigonea site is open, but at the time of visiting there were no audio guides or leaflets.   The information boards are weatherworn and largely illegible.
• The Archaeological Museum in Korçë is closed in the afternoons.

Chapter 7: The Southwest

Gjirokastra

[Reader update – 22/11/22] p.278. The Ethnographic Museum has been refurbished and updated (Sept 2022). It’s extremely well presented in a contemporary manner, with videos, original sound recordings, plus descriptions in English throughout. Well worth the visit.

Chapter 2: Practical Information

Getting there and away

Purchasers of Edition 7 of our guide to The Azores should be aware that Ryanair’s weekly flight from Manchester to Ponta Delgada now happens on a Friday, rather than a Thursday as stated in the book. (These flights end for the season in October, and no plans have yet been announced for next year’s schedule.)
Airline schedules are always changing, so we would advise that readers always check airline schedules first, before making any accommodation or ongoing inter-island transport arrangements.
So, what does Terceira have to offer? The avid researcher can certainly circumnavigate this rugged volcanic island by bus, but really a car is best for a week’s stay. The landscape is a true highlight, with geothermal activity, much greenery and underground caves to explore.
The town of Praia da Vitoria is close to the airport and has the island’s best beach, but most visitors will base themselves in Angra do Heroismo. This pretty town is a UNESCO World Heritage site, with a coupled of good museums, and old town tour, pretty gardens and the biggest concentration of quality restaurants and accommodation options. After exploring Angra, you can tour the island in a day or two, but do take time to pull on your boots and take advantage of the superb hiking for which the Azores are justifiably renowned.

[Updated 2/11/23] A reader reports that tobacco imports are restricted and subject to forfeiture or payment of full duties and taxes.

Bridgetown

George Washington House and The Garrison Tunnels

[Updated 6/09/22] p. 37: Self-Guided Tours through the George Washington House, Museum & access to areas of the Garrison Tunnels-Everyday 0900-1600, US$20.00, children (5-12) US$10.00, under 5’s free.

Chapter 2: Practical information

Red Tape

[Updated 8/10/18] p. 54: Hand-in-hand with changes to the fast-evolving visa regime come developments on the requirement for visitors to register their temporary address within Belarus. This must still be done within five working days of arriving in the country, but it is no longer necessary to complete the two-part migration form that used to be handed out on your plane, train or bus prior to crossing the border.

If staying at a hotel or hostel the process of registration will be completed for you. It only takes a few minutes. You will be handed a small registration certificate. Guard it as you would your passport, because you will need to hand it in when you leave the country.

If staying with relatives, friends or in a private apartment you will need to attend the local Citizenship & Migration office personally (with your host). Take your passport and medical insurance documents with you. After completing the necessary paperwork and paying a modest fee you will be given your certificate of registration for presentation at the border at the end of your trip.

Chapter 3: Minsk City and Oblast

What to see and do 

[Updated 23/7/19] p. 165:The Museum of Ancient Belarusian Culture is now closed for essential repairs and is not expected to open again until sometime next year. 

Chapter 5: East Bosnia

Sutjeska National Park

What to see and do

[updated 28/09/22] p.186 A reader reports that the primeval forest trail is now more strictly regulated and a sanctioned guide from the park is advisable. Information regarding guides can be obtained either at the reception of the Hotel Mladost in the national park or via the email for the national park management.

Chapter 13: The Okavango Delta – Private Reserves around Moremi 

Mapula and Kadizora (NG12)

Where to stay

p. 348: Mapula Lodge We’re pleased to report that Mapula Lodge has recently come under new ownership, resulting in some very positive changes.  As a result, we can once more recommend the lodge to safari-goers. [Updated 28/4/19]

Chapter 2: Practical Information

Red Tape

[updated 16/06/22] p.50 – Irish and other EU nationals do not need a visa to visit Bulgaria for a period of up to 90 days within a six-month period. A personal ID card or a passport valid for the period of intended stay is required.

Chapter 3: Sofia

What to see and do

Ethnographic Museum

Chapter 1: Background Information

History of the Jesuits

The Jesuits Today

[updated 15/12/21] On page 18 the page number referring to the ‘THE JESUITS IN THE MODERN WORLD’ box is incorrect, this should read ‘(see box, page 266)’ not ‘(see box, page 226)’.

Slow Travel Cheshire

Chapter 1: Chester & Wirral

Chester Zoo

[Updated 2/10/2018] p.34: The zoo does not feature polar bears in its collection.

Food & drink

[Updated 2/10/2018] p.35: Covino 10 Rufus Ct, CH1 2JW 01244 347727. This relative newcomer, tucked away in a small modern courtyard, may have passed us by but you should make a beeline for its excellent wines, many biodynamic, and delicious small dishes of artisan cured meats and cheeses. The intimate bar is set on the first floor – take a table in the bar, which has an industrial-chic feel with its brick walls and bare light bulbs, or, in good weather, a table on the small terrace.

Birkenhead

[Updated 2/10/2018] p.46–9: While you’re in Birkenhead, call by Birkenhead Priory (Priory St CH41 5JH 0151 666 3537 Apr–Sep 13.00–17.00 Wed–Fri, 10.00–17.00 Sat & Sun, Oct–Mar 12.00–16.00 Wed–Fri, 10.00–16.00 Sat & Sun) to see the remains of this once significant spiritual centre, the Benedictine monks from which ran the Mersey ferry. The town also hosts an art collection that focuses on artists from the region at the Williamson Art Gallery & Museum (Slatey Rd CH43 4UE 0151 666 3537 10.00–17.00 Wed–Sun).

Chapter 2: South Cheshire

Nantwich

Food & drink

[Updated 2/10/2018] p.87: Teresa’s Ice Cream Parlour has closed.

Chapter 3: The Heart of the Plain

Shopping

[Updated 2/10/2018] p.114: Bookshop at Oakmere has closed

Chapter 5: Macclesfield & the Peak District

Macclesfield 

Food & drink

[Updated 8/10/2018] p. 153: 

Flour Water Salt 9 Market Pl, Macclesfield SK10 1EB 01625 260563 flourwatersalt.co.uk 08.30–14.30 Tue–Sat; 10.00-15.00 on Treacle Market Sundays. This well-respected bakery champions Real Bread and has been producing excellent sourdough, ciabatta and rye breads since 2009, selling its wares at the Treacle Market and supplying local restaurants and shops. Now owners Paul and Eva Robinshaw have gone one better, converting an empty amusement arcade in the heart of Macc into their own little café. And very nice it is, too, serving breakfast, brunch and lunch as well as a grand range of breads, cakes and pastries.

The Random Apple Company Shrigley Fold, Swanscoe, Macclesfield SK10 5SZ 07742 678873 swanscoe.co.uk. Got some apple trees laden with fruit? Take any surplus along to The Random Apple Company in Swanscoe, northeast of Macclesfield, where you can swap them for juice and maybe have a go at pressing some fruit yourself. The ‘Applery’ is based in private grounds, so only open to the public on limited days throughout the season; see the website for details. The same family-run venture is behind The Kitchen, a range of home-made jams, jellies and fruit cheeses, and between now and Christmas there’s a pop-up farm stand every Sunday morning (10.00–12.00), selling these and other home-grown goodies. 

Chapter 6: Stockport & the Cheshire Panhandle 

Stockport & around 

Food & drink

[Updated 8/10/2018] p. 153:The Allotment 

Sadly, Stockport’s wonderful vegan restaurant has decamped to neighbouring Manchester. The last meal at the Stockport premises was served at the end of September 2018 and the restaurant reopens on Lloyd Street in central Manchester on 3 November.

Chapter 7: Northeast Cheshire

Cheshire mountaineers 

[Updated 8/10/2018] p. 236: Apologies for the editing error that crept in to the copy about the Mallory memorial window in the box on Cheshire mountaineers. Towards the end of the first column, instead of referring to ‘a memorial window to Archibald Keightley Nicholson’ the text should, of course, read ‘by Archibald Keightley Nicholson’.

Marton, Siddington & Redesmere

Food & drink

[Updated 8/10/2018] p. 250: Chapeau! New management took over in April 2018 and while the café is still there, the next-door food shop has now gone, replaced by a games shop.

Chapter 8: Mersey & northwest Cheshire

Helsby

Food & drink

[Updated 8/10/2018] p. 284: 

Beer Heroes Helsby Train Station WA6 0BX 01928 890440 beerheroes.com 17.00–21.00 Thu; 14.00–21.00 Fri; 13.00–21.00 Sat; 14.00–20.00 Sun. Head for Helsby station and in one of the old railway buildings there you’ll find a shrine to craft beers, with eight on tap and another 300-odd in bottles and cans, for drinking in or taking away. We found out about this little bottle shop and tap room too late to include it in the first edition – curses – but we’re delighted to see that it’s clearly doing well. In summer 2018 owners Carl and Kelly Ball (motto: ‘saving the world from ordinary beer!’) opened a sister venture in Chester (26 Watergate St CH1 2LA 01244 340393 noon–21.00 daily) with a similar offering.

Chapter 9: Accommodation

Macclesfield & the Peak District

Swythamley Chapel 

[Updated 12/06/2018] Sadly, since the book went to press, this property is no longer available for holiday lets.

Chapter 1: Cotswold Gateways

Oxford

[Updated 12/06/2017] p.36. The website address for the tourist information centre in Oxford is www.experienceoxfordshire.org.

[Update from author 20/02/23] Skomer Island boat trips no longer allow dogs – only Ramsey Island trips do. 

[Update from author 20/02/23] Living museum in Suffolk is now Food Museum.

Toulouse

Le Printemps de Septembre 

[Updated 06/09/2022] p.317. The festival does not necessarily take place in even years. The last one was held in 2021 and the next one will be held in 2023.

[Updated 20/05/24] p.29. A reader advised that the bus timetable for the Park & Ride service is 07.00 – 18.30 rather than 07.00 – 19.00 as stated in the guide.

Tritchayne Farm Cottages

[Julie Gosling writes…] If your friends or family are looking to visit this area and are wanting superb self catering accommodation can thoroughly recommend Tritchayne Farm Cottages situated on the outskirts of Colyton. Bought and renovated by Jane Urquhart she now has four beautiful cottages to rent through Toad Hall Cottages. Set in fabulous location with a small lake overlooked by a gorgeous glass conservatory holding a very large table for guests to have meals together. Large field adjoining for guests to be able to exercise dogs. Check out the website for more details.

Chapter 2: Practical Information

Chapter 7: Mull

Ross of Mull

Chapter 3: Tallinn

Entertainment and nightlife

Chapter 7: Mull

Ross of Mull

No updates yet.

Atlantic Airways operate seasonal direct flights from London Gatwick to Vágar Faroe Islands on Tuesdays and Saturdays between 1^st June and 31^st August.

Page 65:  Boat trips from Tórshavn. The concert cruise is now offered annually, and we believe the date for 2025 is 29^th June.

Page 72:  The opening hours at Maggiés Cafe have changed and are now Friday 5pm till midnight, Saturday 1pm till midnight and Sunday 2pm till 10pm, with the kitchen open until 7pm each evening.

Page 112:  The restaurant at Gjáargarður guesthouse is now open to non-residents.

Page 119:  The Brimborg restaurant in Sydrugøta is now closed.

Nuuk’s new international airport opened in November 2024, and has made travel to Greenland even easier.

The new terminal building is an interesting blend of Scandinavian and traditional Inuit designs and has all the facilities you would expect, from ATMs and a cafe to a duty-free store.

The airport’s longer runway enables international flights from all over the world, including direct flights from Canada, Denmark and Iceland. Easy connections to all of Europe and North America are expected in the future.

The town of Môle-Saint-Nicolas is regularly referred to as the “northeast of Haiti”, for example on p. 48: “At Môle-Saint-Nicolas in the far northeast…” or p. 175: “…the little-visited gem of Môle-Saint-Nicolas in the far northeast…”.

However, Môle-Saint-Nicolas is in the far northwest of Haiti, not the northeast.

Page 7

13/06/2023: The authors report that Pollock’s Toy Museum is currently closed and seeking new long-term premises. In the meantime they have been offered pop-up venues.

Visit the website for Pollock’s Toy Museum for more information.

Chapter 3: Skye

Chapter 7: Mull

Ross of Mull

Accommodation

Southeast Coastal Kent: Dover to Dungeness

B&Bs

Southeast Coastal Kent: Dover to Dungeness

Folkestone

Creative Quarter

Chapter 5: Jalal-Abad Province

Jalal-Abad

[Update by Umberto Visconti – 22/09/22]

The Elnura Restaurant has now closed – p. 255

Pushkin park (unlabelled on the map) has now been built on and is no longer a park – p.255

The city seems more conservative than is depicted in the guide and most of venues they visited didn’t serve alcohol.

Ortok 

[Update by Umberto Visconti – 22/09/22]

p.259 A reader reports that the guide is missing detail on how to reach the village – locals were unable to help, so be aware of this if planning a trip and try to seek out local advice.

Chapter 6: Lake Issyk-Kul South and the Central Tien Shan

Trekking in the Central Tien Shan

Jergalan

TOUR AND TREKKING OPERATORS

Guesthouses & homestays

Chapter 4: Narvik and the Islands

Haparanda

[Reader update, 27/02/2023] p.119 The passenger line between Haparanda/Boden/Lulea is now open.

Updates from Paul Doyle, author of Lebanon: the Bradt Guide – 13/06/2023

Chapter 3: Practical Information

Page 99 – Money

On 1 February 2023 Lebanon’s Central Bank (Banque Du Liban) changed the official exchange rate for the first time in over 25 years from LBP1,500 to LBP15,000 to US$1. Thus in May 2023 the official exchange rates for the £, US$ and € were as follows:

£1 = LBP18,985.74

US$1 = LBP15,021.88

€1 = LBP16,550.85

Chapter 4: Beirut

Page 152 – Le Bristol Hotel

This hotel has now closed down [map: page 141, 9E6]

Page 169 – Laundrettes

New opening times & prices for Colombiano Laundromat:

Open: 09.00–17.00 Mon–Sat, closed Sun

Price: US$2.5 per 1Kg of laundry. Price includes detergent, washing & drying.

Page 181 – AUB Archaeological Museum

Updated summer opening hours:

08.00–15.00 Mon–Fri

Page 182 – Choco Story Beirut

Updated opening times & admission prices:

Open: 09.00–18.00 daily

Admission: adults US$6; children US$6

Page 183 – Lebanese Museum of Prehistory

Amended opening times & admission prices:

Open: 08.30–16.30 Tue–Fri

Admission: Adults LBP60,000; children & students under 26 years LBP40,000

Page 185 – line 2:

“B_CE” should be “_BCE”

Page 185 –  Sursock Museum

This museum will reopen, following renovation after the 2020 Beirut port explosion (page 42), on Friday 26 May 2023. Keep an eye on the sursock museum website for opening times and days.

Chapter 5: Mount Lebanon

Page 210 – Teleferique

Updated opening times & prices:

Open: 12.00–20.00 Mon; 11.00–20.00 Tue–Sun

Prices: adults one-way LBP290,000, return trip LBP485,000; children (8–15 years) one-way LBP175,000, return trip LBP240,000; children under 8 years free (if accompanied by an adult)

Chapter 7: The Bekaa Valley

Page 269 – Chateau Ksara

Amended opening times & admission/tasting prices for above winery:

Open: Nov–Mar 09.00–16.30 daily except Christmas Day & New Year’s Day, Apr–Oct 10.00–17.30 daily

Restaurant:

Open 11.00–17.30 daily (08 813 495 ext. 221 • [email protected])

There are now 2 tour & wine tasting prices which visitors can choose from:

• Classic Tour (c45 minutes; US$6pp) which includes a tour of the Roman caves, tasting of 3 different wines & a glass of arak.
• Extended Tour (c90 minutes; US$15pp) includes a driven tour around the Ksara estate visiting the observatory, monastery, the old 19th-century winery & the Roman caves. At the conclusion of the tour visitors can sample 5 different wines. Advance booking for this tour (08 813 495 • [email protected] • www.chateauksara.com.lb) is strongly advised as the tour is limited to 7 people.

Chapter 9: South Lebanon

Page 319 – Debbané Palace Museum

Updated admission prices:

Adults LBP15,000; Children 12–18 years LBP7,500; Children under 12 years free

Chapter 5: Local Transport

Métro, trams and buses

Métro

[Updated 01/03/2017] p.45 Just when you thought you’d got the hang on the public transport system… Eight stations on the Lille Métro network have been renamed from March 2017.

Métro Line 1:

Previously called                               Now called
CHR-B Calmette                               Eurasanté
CHR Oscar Lambret                         CHU – Centre O. Lambret
Hellemmes                                        Mairie d’Hellemmes
Lezennes                                          Square Flandres

Métro Line 2:

Previously called                               Now called
Les Prés                                           Les Prés – Edgard Pisani
Croix Mairie                                      Mairie de Croix
Gare Jean Lebas                             Gare Jean Lebas Roubaix
Tourcoing Sébastopol                      Gare de Tourcoing

From Sunday March 1 2018 all domestic buses, trams and trains throughout the entire country will be free. You will no longer have to buy a ticket for any journey within Luxembourg – simply board and ride. (Note that if you wish to travel first-class on trains you will still need a valid ticket; second class is, however, free.)

On international services to and from Germany, France and Belgium the portion of the journey within Luxembourg is also now free, and the total ticket price has been reduced accordingly. 

There is more information on it here and here.

Updates from Juliet Rix, author of Malta and Gozo: the Bradt Guide – 15/11/2022

Traditional Maltese Homestay – A traditional Maltese household with a shady garden of orange and olive trees has two rooms for guests. In a quiet historic residential area, San Pawl Tat-Targa (near Naxxar), in the middle of the island (away from the tourist areas), the retired hosts are part of a famous Anglo-Maltese family and happy to chat and help their guests get the most from their time in Malta. In summer, breakfast is on a tiled table out on the terrace and guests are welcome to use the garden. There is also a small indoor lounge with plenty of books. Parking available. Villa Selmunett, Triq E Bradford, San Pawl Tat-Targa, Naxxar NXR 2216, Malta. Tel: +356-9994735 / 99995507  [email protected]

Double room B&B €100pn (if fewer than seven days), €80pn for longer stays. In April these will rise to €120 / €100.

Valletta

p.103 – Valletta’s Tourist Office is now in Triton Square – ie the square just outside City Gate with the Triton fountain at its centre. The office is a sizeable kiosk on the edge of the square on the Phoenicia Hotel side. (There is no longer a tourist office inside the city walls). Open 9am-5.15pm Mon-Sat, 9-12.45 Sun.

Valletta Design Cluster is now open on the Marsamxett harbour side of lower Valletta, at the bottom of Mint Street. A satisfying mix of old building (once an abbatoir) and modern architectural conversion, as well as studios and offices for artists and creative start-ups, it offers small changing art exhibitions and has a lovely little roof garden, attractively planted, and even with a small fishpond. It’s a delightful spot to take a book, or a takeaway coffee or sandwich to enjoy in green-surrounded peace with views over Valletta. And it is all open to the public and free.

The Fast Ferry from Valletta to Gozo is now running less frequently and starting later in the morning and stopping earlier in the evening. It can still be combined with the old ferry (one way on each) to make a slightly quicker day trip. Less pleasant crossing, but less time on the road.

The lovely restaurant site on St George’s Sq has now been taken over by 59 Republic. It has a classic vaulted Valletta cellar interior and bar, with a lovely terrace outside, shaded by umbrellas on sunny days and warmed by glowing gas heaters on cooler evenings. It sits directly opposite the Grand Masters Palace and there’s always something going on in the square. Food ranges from decent to excellent, and some is highly imaginative. I recommend the scallops in creamy prawn sauce (starter) and perfectly cooked fresh fish. Or if you are up for something completely different, the Foie Gras Rocher – yup, foie gras coated in milk chocolate. It is served in a golden wrapper like the original and rather to my astonishment, it works. Open for supper (6.30-10pm) Mon-Sat and lunch (12.30-3.30pm) Wed-Sun.

p.122 – The Grand Master’s Palace is currently closed for restoration and renovation. No definite reopening date yet.

p.124 – The St John’s Co-Cathedral Museum remains closed with the new one under construction (due to open in a couple of years). The dazzling church and it’s Caravaggio paintings remain open however. Note that while the Beheading of St John (Caravaggio’s largest and only signed painting) is in the oratory (for which it was painted), the St Jerome has been moved into a side room (with fairly awful lighting, but if you move around, you can see it pretty well), so don’t miss it.

Marsaxlokk

p.185 – Marsaxlokk now has more boat services. As well as tours around the harbour there are water taxis to Peter’s Pool for about 10 euros return. Most have stalls along the waterfront.  

p.186 – Three Sisters restaurant in Marsaxlokk has closed.

Gozo

If you are looking for ‘real’ souvenirs in Gozo, there is a little lace shop (Bastion Lace, tel: 21555444 / 79561471, open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm) and a little silver filigree shop (The Citadel Castle Jewellery, tel: 2153022 / 79552934) inside the Citadel, in the alleyway leading up from the original entrance (past the archaeological museum) on the right of the cathedral. Both shops are run by practitioners of their craft.

[Reader update – June 2024]

Chapter 3

• The National Museum and Art Gallery in Cetinje is currently closed for refurbishment.
• The Podgorica City Museum no longer seems to house a permanent collection, only temporary exhibitions.
• The Podgorica Natural History Museum has moved – the previous building is now offices and a member of staff will redirect you to the new site.

Chapter 4

• The Budva Town Museum opens on Mondays (in spite of the notice outside) but only from 15.00.

Chapter 6

• The main road from the Tara Bridge to Mojkovac is currently only open between 12.00 and 14.00 each day.

Chapter 7

• The Town Museum in Bijelo Polje is currently closed for refurbishment but down the hill is the Poet’s Park which contains a statue of Montengro’s best known poet, the guslar Avdo Mededovic with an account of his discovery by Parry and Lord during their researches into Homer as an oral poet.
• Plav: Lake Views Camp and Guesthouse (page 225) now has a very limited evening menu but still does good breakfasts. The campsite is beautifully situated but has limited sanitary facilities (2 toilets and 1 shower shared with some rooms in the hotel).
• At Vusanje the waterfall “Grasshopper” / Skakavica (page 226) is the name of the Oka (“eye”) of incredibly blue water a little way up the Ropojana Valley on the way to the Jesero (lake).

No updates yet.

Chapter 2: The Northumberland Coast

[Updated 07/03/222] p. 56  – ‘Close to the museum is the QEII Country Park – a large lake (once the largest in Europe) with picnic tables and a lakeside trail;’ should read ‘Close to the museum is the QEII Country Park – a large lake (once the largest spoil heap in Europe) with picnic tables and a lakeside trail;’

Chapter 3: Girne (Kyrenia)

Where to eat and drink

[Updated 20/09/2022] p.71  – The rooftop restaurant of the Grand Center Hotel has now closed.

[Updated 20/09/2022] p.71  – The rooftop restaurant of Erol’s has now closed.

Chapter 1: Practical Information

Visas

[Updated 25/04/17] p. 43. The minimum period a visa can be issued for has risen from 10 days to one month. To reflect this, the cost of this basic visa has increased from RO5 to RO20.

Getting there

[Updated 27/2/18] p. 45. From March 20th 2018 the new Terminal at Muscat International Airport will open. All Flights are expected to arrive and depart from there. The terminal is within the existing airport boundary which will mean the broader details of any arrival or departure will remain as before, though details such as adjacency to the main highway will change.

Concurrent with that relocation is an announcement by the entry visa issuing authority, Royal Oman Police, that all visas for Oman should be applied for online here.

Getting around

[Updated 16/06/17] p. 59-60. The bus company Mwasalat have announced a more or less complete relocation of InterCity bus departures – now leaving from their maintenance garage. The new location is in Al Athaiba, Muscat on the main Al Sultan Qaboos St.

There is only one exception – the service number 36 via Qurayyat – which still goes from Ruwi, although this may also change.

Chapter 3: Al Batinah

The Rustaq Loop

[Reader update – 22/11/22] p.187. Nakhal Fort is currently closed for renovation.

[Reader update – 22/11/22] p.195. Ar Rustaq Fort is currently closed for renovation.

Chapter 8: Ash Sharqiyyah

Sur

Where to stay

[Updated 30/03/17] p. 264. Zaki Apartment Hotel (30 apartments) Tel: 25 545924; Zaki is a very well-established local restaurant and the addition of accommodation with Zaki Apartment Hotel makes the combination well worth considering for a family stay. There is a mix of very spacious and well-furnished one- and two-bedroom apartments, all with kitchen, including breakfast and Wifi. A new family restaurant has been added on top of the original Zaki restaurant at the rear, with mainly Indian food, but also grills. $$

Bahla

[Reader update – 22/11/22] p.269. Entry to Jabreen Castle is now 30MR for tourists.

Camping

We recommend contacting campsites, if possible, before travelling to confirm the type of camping (tents or motorhomes/caravans) that is currently permissible as this can vary.

Chapter 4: Harris (Na Hearadh)

Page 170

Chapter 6: Berneray

[Updated on 7/4/2022] p. 216. ‘North Coast Sands Map’ – the road marked as C83 (Committee Rd) is actually a forestry access track, the C83 (Committee Rd) is just poking its head into the bottom of the map, south-west of Malacleit.

Chapter 8: South Uist (Uibhist a Deas) and Eriskay (Eirisgeidh)

Page 244

The Pierwoall Hotel on Westray is under new management and has been recommended by a guest who tells us that it has been beautifully furnished. (p.244)

The St Magnus Way has now been extended: it now begins in Egilsay. (p.100)

Chapter 3: The Mainland

[updated 28/06/22]

p.89 map – Hobbister Hill should be on the opposite side of the road. 

p.105 Ring of Brodgar – Every day in June, July & August at 13.00 there is a free 1 hour (may last 1.5 hours) tour of the Ring of Brodgar. No booking required. 

p.108 Maeshowe – The Maeshowe centre closes at 17.00 (May–Sep)

p.108 Standing Stones of Stenness –  Mon-Fri, June, July & August at 10.00 there is a free 1 hour (may last 1.5 hours) tour at the Standing Stones of Stenness and nearby Barnhouse village. No booking required. 

p. 117, 118 & 119 – The Wrigley and The Reel Cafe Bar is now closed.

Chapter 6 – Rousay, Egilsay and Wyre

p.180 Shopping – The Crafthub has now closed.

[Updated May 2024] p. 201. A reader reports that Trumland House is currently shut while the house and garden undergo renovation.  It is unlikely to be open during 2024 and therefore it would be advisable to check before visiting.

Chapter 6 Tabuk and Medina

In November 2024 a reader advised that due to the Neom construction it is not currently possible to visit the Springs of Moses, Tayyib al Ism or Ras Suwayhil al Saghir, all on page 202.  Visitors are not allowed through the checkpoint, and there is no indication as when the sites will reopen.

Chapter 3: Getting there and away

By air

No updates yet.

Lewtrenchard Manor

I had a truly wonderful lunch last week at Lewtrenchard Manor. They do affordable lunches off season and just sitting in those gracious surroundings, admiring the paintings of the ancestors and oak panel carvings was a treat.

South Devon Highway

The once-tedious journey from Exeter to Torquay and the rest of the English Riviera has been greatly improved by the completion of the South Devon Highway which bypasses Kingskerswell.

Hope Cove

I have been gently chided for not giving Hope Cove enough coverage, so here is a description from Richard Bryson:

Hope Cove glances sideways to the sea from the lee of Bolt Tail in the South Hams. The village is really two hamlets – Inner Hope and Outer Hope, nestled either side of a sweeping cove with views westwards across Bigbury Bay to Burgh Island and Rame Head.

Swollen in recent years with holiday homes and hotels, Hope Cove’s soul remains wed-locked to the sea. History first notes Hope Cove in thirteenth century Assize Rolls, its livelihood based over subsequent centuries on seafaring in forms both fair and foul – mainly fishing, augmented with smuggling and the plunder of shipwrecks.

The Spanish Armada brushed past on its way up Channel in 1588. One of its number – the hospital ship San Pedro el Mayor – later foundering on Hope Cove’s Shippen Rock. The 140 survivors were first condemned to death and then ransomed back to Spain. The crew of HMS Ramillies were less fortunate, only 20 sailors and one midshipman surviving from a complement of 850 when she foundered in a small cove just east of Bolt Tail on 15 February 1760. Driven on a westerly gale, her sailing master mistook Bolt Tail for Rame Head and the entrance to Plymouth Sound.

The RNLI stationed a series of four lifeboats in Hope Cove between 1878 and 1930, each in turn taking the name Alexandra. A volunteer rescue boat has been stationed at Inner Hope since 1992, originally maintained by the Maritime Coastguard Agency but operated since 2010 by a local Limited Company and Charitable Trust as the UK’s 63rd Independent Life Boat. The village was also the wartime home to RAF and WAAF personnel serving a part of Plymouth’s radar and anti-aircraft defences.

Nearby, RAF Bolt Head supported squadrons of fighter-bombers conducting offensive sweeps across occupied France.
Hope Cove’s alluring thatched cottages and its clean beaches, safe swimming and rock pools, provide the quintessential setting for the ideal family holiday. Visitors can chose between the famous Hope and Anchor inn and the many cafes and hotel restaurants.

Winsford Walled Garden

[Janet Mears writes:] On a recent visit to Devon I visited the tranquil Winsford Walled Garden (Winsford Lane, Halwill Junction, Beaworthy EX21 5XT; open Wed-Sun from 10.00am until 5.00pm, plus Bank Holidays; entrance £5). Originally part of a Victorian estate, the walled gardens were left to ruin after the war. Now fully restored, it is a delightful garden brimming with colour, and with many interesting plants and plant combinations. There are two restored Victorian teak greenhouses one of which was full of luscious-looking tomatoes when I visited. There is also an extensive mature bamboo grove with many different varieties, about 40ft high, together with gigantic gunneras. Winsford is the home of the artist Dugald Stark and his wife Adel. Dugald’s oil paintings (seascapes, views of the garden, etc) can be viewed in his studio overlooking the garden. Definitely worth a visit; allow about an hour.

Chapter 3: Practical information

Getting there

By air

[Updated 26/10/17] Pages 54–5: It’s been a long time a-coming, but at long last the first commercial flights to St Helena commenced on 14 October 2017.  The weekly service between Johannesburg and St Helena will be operated by SA Airlink, whose aircraft will refuel in Windhoek, with connecting flights between Cape Town and Windhoek in both directions. The service between Johannesburg and St Helena will take just over six hours, with up to 76 passengers on each flight – 70 in economy class and six in business.

Flights will operate every Saturday, departing from Johannesburg at around 09.00, and arriving in St Helena at 13.15. The return flight will leave St Helena on Saturday afternoon, at 14.30, touching down in Johannesburg at 22.30, or Cape Town at 23.00.  Economy return fares will range from £804 to £1,244, with business-class fares fixed at £1,544. Fares between St Helena and Cape Town will be marginally higher as a result of higher airport taxes: £846–1,286 return in economy, and £1,586 in business class.

On the second Saturday of the month, the flight will continue on from St Helena to Ascension Island, returning to St Helena on the Sunday, from where the flight schedule will match that of the Saturday.   

By sea 

[Updated 07/01/17] Page 55:In anticipation of a delay in establishing regular flights to St Helena, operation of the RMS St Helena between Cape Town, St Helena and Ascension has been extended until February 2018.

Getting around

By taxi 

[Updated 07/01/17] Page 66:A new 24-hour taxi service was launched in August 2016, V2 Taxi Partners (62644, 51284). It also offers a ‘VIP champagne cruise’ for £180 per couple including a three-course meal and drinks.

Chapter 4: Jamestown

Where to stay

[Updated 11/11/17] Page 87: With the advent of flights to St Helena comes the opening of the new hotel at numbers 1, 2 & 3 Main Street:

Mantis St Helena  (22 rooms, 8 suites) Main St; tel: +27 (0)41 404 9300; e [email protected]; https://mantissthelena.com.  Opened in time for the first visitors to arrive by air in Oct 2017, St Helena’s newest hotel combines ‘heritage’ suites in the original buildings at this historic address, with smaller, more contemporary rooms in the new extension – which has been designed to incorporate an old well that was discovered in the old garden.  All rooms come with en-suite shower or baths, AC, safes & TVs, with some suitable for families & others for wheelchair users. Aside from the chef, every member of staff is from St Helena. The à la carte restaurant is open to residents & non-residents alike, for breakfast, lunch & dinner.

What to see and do 

[Updated 11/11/17] Page 94: Jamestown/Jacob’s Ladder A new café at the top of Jacob’s Ladder, Rosie’s Place, offers the incentive of a welcome cold drink or cup of coffee after the climb.

Pages 105–6: St Paul’s, Alarm Forest and Longwood/Plantation House Visitors can arrange to visit Plantation House through the tourist office in Jamestown. This is usually on a Tuesday morning, but other times may be possible. There’s now a charge of £10 per person, which includes coffee, and children are welcome if accompanied by an adult. For a further £5, you can have a proper tour of the library as well.

Chapter 7: Visiting Ascension

Getting there and away

By air

From St Helena

[Updated 26/10/17] Page 134: The first scheduled flight between St Helena and Ascension will be on the third Saturday in November, but thereafter flights will depart from St Helena on the second Saturday of the month, returning to St Helena the following day.  For details of flights between South Africa and St Helena, see above.

By sea

[Updated 07/01/17] Page 134-5: As a result of continued uncertainty over regular flights to St Helena, the RMS St Helena will continue in service, linking the two islands with Cape Town, until February 2018. 

Georgetown

Where to eat and drink

Chapter 8: Background information

Health

15: Orford

An Orford Stroll

[Updated 06/10/22 – Juanita Bullough] p. 59 The text should read ‘turn RIGHT through wooden gate …’ (rather than left) and ‘Green House Lane’ should read ‘Green Lane House.’

Chapter 1: Chichester Harbour to the Arun

Chichester

[Updated 17/2/17] p. 32 The telephone number for the Novium Museum is 01243 775888.

Chapter 4: North Taiwan

Super up-to-date and comprehensive travel information for Jiufen and Shifen can be found on this blog.

[Updated 2/1/20] Because of changes to the insurance rules for YouBike, the shared public bikes in Greater Taipei, foreign tourists are currently unable to rent the bikes unless they pay a deposit of NTD2,000 per bike through their credit cards.

Chapter 5: Hakka Country

Hsinchu Image Museum

[Updated 10/6/2019] p. 150: Hsinchu Image Museum is closed for renovations until at least the end of June 2019.

Chapter 6: Central Taiwan

Getting around

[Updated 22/6/2020] The daily #6506 bus from Fengyuan to Lishan via Hehuanshan has been cancelled.

Chapter 7: Southwest Taiwan 

Tainan – Where to eat and drink

[Updated 24/5/2019] p. 205: Foodies bound for Tainan might like this guide to 11 street-food hot spots, written by the author of Taiwan: The Bradt Travel Guide. Whether you’re looking for shrimp rolls, roasted sweet potatoes, or sweet treats like Neipu rice cake, this article has all the information you need.

Chapter 8: Kaohsiung and Pingtung

Liangshan Waterfall

[Updated 22/6/2020] Visitors must pay to enter 60/30 (weekdays) and 80/40 (weekends). Parking a car costs 50.

Chapter 9: East Taiwan

Zhiben Hot Springs

[Updated 21/5/2019] p. 299: The stairs up to Jade Waterfall (Baiyu Falls) near Zhiben Hot Springs are currently closed. The little car park at the bottom of the stairs remains open and from it you can see part of the waterfall. From there it’s possible to take a steep and rough in places – but navigable – road towards Yaoshan. This is best done by motorcycle, the road being too narrow for larger vehicles.

In January 2024 a reader reported the following:

Page 207 – Manyara Ranch is now closed.

Page 205 –  Sandayuwa Gate lies further south at Mamire Ranger Post while the gate near Lake Burunge is called Sangaiwe Gate at Sangaiwe Ranger Post. 

Page 231 – In addition to Lake Manyara Tree Lodge, there are are two other permanent camps, Wayo Manyara Green Camp which opened in 2022 and the Tortilis Manyara Camp which opened in 2019. 

Page 363 – Anna of Zanzibar now belongs to a small chain called Sisters of Zanzibar, Sisters of Zanzibar – Sisters of Zanzibar

Chapter 6: Arusha National Park and the Moshi Highway

[Updated 07/03/2022] p.154 – Rivertrees Country Inn phone numbers have changed to % 027 255 743 600 160/ 027 255 743 600 202.

• [Updated 18/07/2022] Due to the situation in Afghanistan, the border crossings and border markets remain closed and foreign nationals cannot cross to / from Afghanistan. 
• Please see the Zarafshon Tourism Development Association website for useful updates.

Chapter 8: West-Central Gorno-Badakhshan

[Updated 18/07/22] p. 187 Due to the recent violence in GBAO, there is an increased military presence and a lot of damage in Khorog, including to the bazaar and to one of the bridges.

A taste of Peru – in London

There are now three Peruvian restaurants in London, so why not get a taste of the country before you visit? The decor sets the scene as well. I’ve only been to Lima (31 Rathbone Place W1T 1JH) which I thought was terrific. Great food, good service, nice atmosphere.

John Forrest, who contributed to Trekking in Peru and is married to a Peruvian, recommends Ceviche in Soho and, under the same management, Tierra Peru (164 Essex Rd, N1). “A bit pricey especially, of course, compared to the prices for the same dishes in Peru”.

I don’t think any of these places serve cuy, no doubt on account of English sensibilities. I did offer to bring my own guinea pigs…

Tunisia

Chapter 3

[Updated November 2023] – A reader reported that the Bardo Museum has now been partly reopened.

Chapter 5

[Updated November 2023] Also the beautiful hilltop village north west of Enfidha at Takroun now has a really good walking path from halfway up the hill to the summit, and there is more restoration of buildings going on making it easy to visit with fantastic views.  There’s small shop and hopefully the café will reopen there soon.

Chapter 11: Macerata Province
and the Sibylline Mountains National Park

Recanati

What to see and do

[updated 13/09/2022] p.302 The Museo Diocesano has now closed. 

[updated 13/09/2022] p.303 The walled garden in Recanati (the Orto sul Colle dell’Infinito) is currently accessed from the Centro Studi Leopardiani which also now houses a museum,  dedicated to ‘L’infinito’, Leopardi’s most famous poem. An entrance fee of 8 euros covers admission to the centre as well as the walled garden. 

Chapter 13: Ascoli Piceno and the Southern Marche

Ascoli Piceno

What to see and do

[updated 13/09/2022] p. 350 The Chiesa di SS. Crocifisso dell’Icona is currently closed for restoration. 

Grottamare

[updates 13/09/2022] p. 356 During the summertime, the museums in Grottammare are open only from 9pm – 11pm. 

Chapter 28: Other Amtrak Trains

The Hoosier State (Chicago–Indianapolis)

[updated 9/1/2020] This train had its last run on June 30, 2019. 

[Updated 27/02/23] Uruguay now requires travel insurance for all arrivals.

Chapter 2: Practical Information and Chapter 6: Western Uruguay

[updated 04/04/22] p.54 and p.309 – The boat service from Tigre (north of Buenos Aires) to Carmelo, which closed down in 2019, has been revived by Buquebus (www.buquebus.com), the main ferry operator between Argentina and Uruguay. Fares begin at about US$60 return for a pleasant three-hour cruise through the Paraná delta.

Chapter 3: Montevideo

[updated 30/03/22] p.94 Remises – A great remise service, El Cid S.R.I. Remises, [email protected], +598 2622 6117, currently 1000 pesos from the airport to Ciudad Vieja

[updated 30/03/22] p.105 RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS – Empanadas Carolina, in the Mercado del Puerto. Absolutely delicious (especially the carne picante) and very cheap. And El Rey de las Comidas – Middle Eastern, delicious and cheap shawarmas (but not the greatest falafel). 1342 Ituzaingó, facing the cathedral on Plaza Matriz. Open until 23:00.

[updated 30/03/22] p.128 CRIME, SAFETY AND POLICE – It seems that the tourist police in the Ciudad Vieja leave at 20:00 but the area remains safe until 22:00. East of Ituzaingó is safe at all hours. The Barrio Sur and Palermo are safe on Calle Maldonado and northwards, and on the Rambla.

[updated 30/03/22] p.131 the Cabildo is on the east side of Plaza Matriz, not the west side (though the location on the map is correct).

Chapter 2: Practical Information

Red Tape

Visas

[updated 12/1/2022] p. 47: There is a warning that UK citizens may no longer be visa-free after Brexit. It is now confirmed that they are still visa-free. See https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/uzbekistan/entry-requirements.

Registration

[Updated 12/01/2022] p. 48: Text says registration ‘should soon be abolished’ –  as of December 2021 it is still required. See link above.

Accommodation

[Updated 12/01/2022] p. 71: There is now a dedicated website for homestays arranged via a community based tourism project: cbtuzbekistan.uz

Chapter 7: Les Herbiers, Clisson and the Vendée Wars

Les Épesses – What to see and do  

Le Puy du Fou: Le Grand Parc

[Updated 14/8/2018] p. 181: Often voted as the world’s best theme park, it’s hard to believe that the Puy du Fou in the Vendée department is in need of further attractions to lure in more visitors.

But amid the stunning historical re-enactments, pageantry, costumed staff and spectacular displays of birds of prey, a slightly more mundane – though bizarre – curiosity is due to appear shortly.

Astonishingly, the park has trained six crows to pick up cigarette ends and rubbish and the birds will shortly be starting work at the Vendée’s biggest tourist site.

The Puy du Fou’s president, Nicolas de Villiers, is quoted as saying:

The goal is not just to clear up, because the visitors are generally careful to keep things clean” but also to show that “nature itself can teach us to take care of the environment.

And while many of the people participating in the park’s night-time show, the incredible Cinéscénie, are volunteers, the crows will not go unpaid: each time they collect some rubbish, they will be rewarded with a morsel of food.

Chapter 7: Lusaka

Where to stay

Budget

[Updated 17/2/17] p.122 Natwange Backpackers really is one of the ‘poshest’ backpackers places you can stay in!! It even has a dressing gown in the wardrobe! It is in the north of Lusaka in quiet Olympia, 1km north of Manda Hill Shopping Centre, so away from the busy city. They have dorms & doubles & is very cosy & friendly. The website is www.natwangebackpackers.com, email is [email protected], and phone is +260 966 303 816. Owners David & Anita.

Chapter 10: The Luangwa Valley

South Luangwa National Park

Where to stay and eat

[Updated 17/2/17] p.248  Dean’s Hill View Lodge is the only place to stay in Chiptata for overlanders that has real beds. The email address is [email protected] & the manager is Andrea Frattolin. Phone numbers: +260 971 720 686 & +260 216 223 698.

Getting there

[Updated17/2/17] p.269 Travelling from Mfuwe, the route is no longer serviced by minibuses but instead coaches run by Juldan & PPDAZ (Public & Private Drivers’ Association of Zambia). The cost remains 50 kwacha (2.5 hours) with a taxi from Mfuwe to the camps nearby (Marula Lodge, Croc Valley & Track & Trail) a further 10 kwacha (10 mins). Juldan & PPDAZ also run direct from Lusaka to Mfuwe & back every day, taking about 11-12 hours & costing 190 kwacha.

On 21 November, 2019, the government of Zimbabwe resolved to rename several roads and streets across the country. The new names commemorate deceased national heroes and their allies from the liberation struggle of the 1970s, with eight across the country renamed after the sitting president Emmerson Mnangagwa. Their reasoning is that such a drastic and unnecessarily confusing change will foster unity and promote a better sense of patriotic identity. While these new names will take a long time to be accurately reflected in maps and signage across Zimbabwe, we thought it prudent to provide an update as fast as possible for the convenience of visitors to the country who could be left high and dry otherwise. In any case it is going to make navigating the towns and cities into a tongue-twisting riddle as people get used to the new reality.