This magni cent mountain range, marking a border with Albania, forms a spellbinding amphitheatre in a still remote corner of the country.

In August 2009 these mountains and their surrounding valleys became Montenegro’s fifth national park, home to Montenegro’s highest mountain, Maja Kolata (2,528m), which lies on the Albanian border. So far there is no visitor centre and no director has been appointed, but plans are in place and in the meantime this sequestered place has official protection.

From the Grbaja Valley, which runs south from Gusinje, the view to the towering semicircle of peaks is Wagnerian and hypnotising. The Prokletije Massif (‘Accursed mountains’), so named because it was traditionally perceived as an unassailable wilderness, has been described as ‘the amphitheatre of the gods’ and it is easy to imagine Wotan himself skulking among the summits and to picture Valhalla ablaze beyond. It is a sight worth any detour.

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