Methoni Castle - A view from our expert author

Methoni castle sunset Peloponnese Greece Europe by Shutterstock
View of Methoni castle at sunset © Shutterstock

Retrace Messinia’s turbulent history at this elegant 19th-century castle.

Whilst the warlike nature of the castle at Koroni seems to have been mitigated by its vegetable gardens and nunnery, there is no escaping the intent of this castle. There has been a fortification here since ancient times. A German dynamite explosion in 1944 revealed Mycenaean foundations.

You enter the castle over an elegant, 14-arched, stone bridge, built by the French in 1828 to replace an earlier wooden one. The inland-facing walls, unsurprisingly, are the most impregnable part of the fortifications. The bridge crosses a large moat started by the Venetians with the original intention of flooding it with sea water, thus entirely surrounding the castle. Their work was interrupted by the Turkish attack of 1500.

The interior of the castle itself is where the old town of Methoni was, with a far larger population than in modern times. There are only a handful of buildings remaining now, including a few ruined Turkish baths and a more recent Orthodox church. A granite column right by the gate is of disputed origin, but was probably put up in commemoration of Giovanni Bembo in 1494. The odd pyramid-roofed building opposite the gate was an armoury.

It is worth heading for the southernmost wall of the castle, where a large sea gate is in the process of being restored. From this a causeway leads you to the Bourtzi tower, perched on a rocky islet. This is where the last survivors of the Turkish assault of 1500 were put to the sword. Despite its dark past it is a beautiful and romantic spot.

Back near the granite column the landward wall, with its single gate, separates the ‘habitable’ side of the castle from the defensive part above the twin bastions. This section of the fortress makes for great exploring.

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