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Albania - Eating and sleeping
Albanian cuisine is rich in Mediterranean ingredients such as olive oil, tomatoes and pimentos, although garlic is not widely used. Lamb, as you would expect in a mountainous country, is excellent, as is fish from Albania’s rivers, seas and lakes.
Fruit and vegetables in Albania are delicious. The tomatoes taste of tomato, the watermelons remind you of something other than water, and the citrus fruit is tangy and refreshing. Aubergines, courgettes, green beans and okra figure prominently in summer, with cabbages, carrots and potatoes taking over in winter. It is a frequent boast in restaurants that all the food is organic (bio), but there is no system in Albania for certifying organic produce.
The classic way to eat lamb is spit-roasted, and the classic place to eat it is at one of the out-of-town restaurants which specialise in this. At weekends and on public holidays these places are filled with extended families at huge tables, tucking into lamb, salad, chips and draught wine. A variation is paidhaqe, lamb ribs grilled over charcoal. Town restaurants are more likely to serve pork or veal (the calves are not kept in crates and are much older when they are slaughtered than the milk-fed veal calves which used to be eaten in Britain).
Sheep’s heart, liver, kidneys, brains and other organs are very popular. In the big cities, it is not always easy to fi nd restaurants which serve these things, but they always exist and can be tracked down by asking. Albanian specialities include paçë koke, a thick soup made with sheep’s head which is a traditional breakfast dish, and kukurec, chopped innards in a gut casing.
Shish qebap is cubes of meat – lamb, pork or beef – marinated and then grilled on skewers, alternated with onion slices; qebap në letër is the same ingredients plus chunks of feta cheese, wrapped in tinfoil and baked in the oven. In tavë Elbasani, or tavë kosi, yoghurt and eggs are beaten together and poured over pieces of lamb or mutton, before the whole thing is baked in the oven. Qoft a are rissoles of minced lamb bound with egg: sometimes they are round and flat, like hamburgers, and sometimes they are cylindrical; sometimes they are served grilled with salad and chips, and sometimes with a tomato-based sauce, when they are usually called Qoft ë Korçe.
Desserts are not usually eaten after meals in Albanian homes. On special occasions xupa might be served, a kind of blancmange sprinkled with walnuts. Sweetmeats are more often eaten with coffee during the xhiro, the early evening promenade. Kadaif and halva will be familiar to anyone who has visited Turkey or Greece, or indeed ever been in a Turkish café. Tullumba are cylinders of dough, deep-fried and tossed in syrup. Sheqerpare is made from little balls of sweet dough, baked in butter. Shëndetlli is a kind of fruit cake, steeped in honey.
The draught wine in provincial restaurants is normally rather young, but can be very drinkable. Albanian wine in bottles is often excellent. The main wine-producing areas are around Korça and Berati and between Lezha and Shkodra. Most Albanian vineyards use well-known grapes such as Sauvignon and Cabernet.
Beer is brewed commercially in Tirana (Birra Tirana and Kaon), Korça (Birra Korça) and Vlora (Norga); the Tirana and Korça breweries produce dark beer as well as the more widely available lager. Locally produced beer is available in a few other towns, such as Puka.
Of the other Albanian alcoholic drinks, raki is the most widely consumed. Despite its Turkish name, Albanian raki is not flavoured with aniseed as it is in Turkey. It is a clear spirit, usually distilled from grape juice, and drunk as a morning pick-me-up, an aperitif, a digestif, or at any other time of day.
Coffee is an even more integral part of Albanian life than raki. Having a coffee with an Albanian takes an absolute minimum of half an hour. Traditionally it was made in the usual Balkan way, with very finely ground coffee, water and sugar all boiled together in an individual pot – in Albanian it is called kafe turke. This is usually what you will be offered in Albanians’ houses. In cafés and restaurants in all but the very smallest towns, Italian espresso machines are the norm, when there is electricity to operate them.
Communist-era hotels in Albania were built to provide accommodation either for individuals travelling on official business or for families on holiday at the beach or in the mountains. Very few foreign tourists visited Albania and so – unlike other communist countries in central and eastern Europe – there were no hotels specifically built for them.
A cobbled street in Berati © Bildagentur Zoonar GmbH, Shutterstock
Every provincial capital had a centrally located hotel, with its own bar and restaurant, and usually with a large number of rooms. This was invariably referred to as ‘Turizmi’ (‘The Tourism’), and it was where foreign tour groups stayed as well as Albanian sports teams or cultural ensembles. Because these hotels had been state-owned, they were often targeted by rioters during the civil uprising of spring 1997 and several were completely destroyed. Of those which survived, all have now been privatised. Typically this means that some rooms – one or two corridors – now have en-suite bathroom facilities, an electric heater in winter and sometimes a television set; these rooms usually cost about €30–40 euros for two people.
More recently built hotels are also very variable in their quality. Some target Albanians travelling for work reasons – bus drivers, sales representatives, etc – and are cheap but basic. Others have opted for the smaller but wealthier market of Albanian professionals and foreign visitors. The conditions in these hotels range from the comfortable to the very comfortable, although their room rates do not always reflect the facilities off ered. Th ese mid-range hotels have en-suite bathrooms, air conditioning and cable television as standard. In Tirana such hotels typically charge around €60; in the rest of the country it is more likely to be around €40–50.
Campsites are a new phenomenon in Albania and few stay open all year round. In summer, many of the beaches on the Riviera have tented sites, of varying degrees of comfort, where travellers can either rent a tent or pitch their own.