A stop along the way

21/10/2014 22:10

Written by Tim Skelton

Between Remich and Grevenmacher, in addition to the somewhat larger villages of Ehnen and Wormeldange, there are several other tiny hamlets, each no more than a speck on the map. But here too you will fi nd some good dining options, as well as yet more opportunities to sup great wines. All the places mentioned below can be reached via bus 450, which runs hourly in each direction between Remich and Grevenmacher.

Two kilometres north of Remich, Stadtbredimus traces its roots back to the Celts. Today the village is mainly notable for being the headquarters of the Domaines de Vinsmoselle wine co-operative (www.vinsmoselle.lu). Their restaurant and tasting room is An der Tourelle (12 route du Vin; 23 698 511; www.tourelle.lu; 11.30–14.00 & 18.00–21.30 Thu–Mon; €€€€), which occupies the 15th-century round tower of Stadtbredimus Castle. This is where chef Jean-Marie Hemmen, who served his apprenticeship under Lea Linster, Luxembourg’s top celebrity chef, produces excellent regional specialities with classic French finesse. The circular high-ceilinged dining room is light, airy and elegant, and the wine list, of course, promotes the Domaines’s produce. 

Machtum Luxembourg Europe by Carlo Rinnen, ONTThe tiny village of Machtum © Carlo Rinnen, ONT

A further 4km north, blink-and-you-miss-it Hëttermillen offers a further chance for tasting. Domaine Viticole Cep D’Or (15 route du Vin; 76 83 83; www.cepdor.lu; Easter–end of Dec 08.00–12.00 & 14.00–19.00 Mon–Fri, 15.00–19.00 Sat–Sun; end of Dec–Easter 08.00–12.00 & 14.00–19.00 Mon–Fri, 17.00–19.00 Sat) is a large winery across the road from the river, with a shop and a bar. Tastings are available in both, but the latter has a large terrace with river views.

Ahn is a pretty riverside hamlet between Wormeldange and Grevenmacher, but besides the Riesling Open wine festival, there’s not a lot here demanding your attention. With one notable exception: Restaurant Mathes (37 route du Vin; 76 01 06; www.restaurant-mathes.lu; 12.00–14.00 & 19.00–21.30 Wed–Sun; closed 2 weeks in Nov, & 2 weeks around Christmas/New Year; €€€€–€€€€€) is a large, modern establishment over the road from the river, with a panoramic terrace taking in the view. The French–Luxembourgish food is excellent, if not cheap, and includes local fish classics such as friture de la Moselle and brochet au Riesling.

And if you think nothing much happens in Ahn, wait until you see Machtum. Again however, there are exceptions. Besides the Riesling Open in September, there is Wäistuff Deisermillen – Schlink Domaines Viticoles (85 route du Vin; 26 72 91 40; mid-Oct–Apr 14.00–21.00 Fri, 12.00–21.00 Sat–Sun & public holidays, May–mid-Oct 14.00–21.00 Wed–Fri, 12.00–21.00 Sat–Sun & public holidays, closed 3 weeks around Christmas/New Year). The tasting room just north of Machtum run by Caves Jean Schlink-Hoff eld is a modern building overlooking the Moselle. Snacks (€) to wash the wine down here include local hams and cheeses. When the Deisermillen is closed, you can also taste and purchase wines at the winery itself in the village (1 rue de l’Eglise; 75 84 68; 08.00–12.00 & 13.00–18.00 Mon–Fri, 08.00–12.00 Sat). Their range includes some of Luxembourg’s finest reds.

Also in Machtum, the Auberge du Lac (77 route du Vin; 75 02 53; www.restaurantaubergedulac.lu; €€€–€€€€) is a long-standing Moselle restaurant that underwent a modernisation in 2012, and is now sleek and modern, serving Luxembourgish and French specialities.

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