[Updated 8/4/2018] p. 83: A new metro card, a small key ring called ezpay, can be purchased for IRR50,000 and charged with any amount desired. It saves time on buying individual metro tickets, is easy to use and very convenient.
Where to stay
[Updated 8/4/2018] p. 85:
Tehran Heritage Hostel (14 rooms/38 beds) 22 Kamal Al-Molk St, Baharestan Sq; 021 33988739; email@example.com; www.heritagetehran.com.The first Western-style hostel in Iran, Heritage Hostel, run by a most welcoming and professional team, is a wonderful mix of modernity and tradition. Opened in January 2018 and located only 100m from Baharestan metro station, it has a spacious inner courtyard situated between two nicely refurbished historic buildings. Dorm beds are equipped with curtains to ensure privacy and private rooms are comfortable and well lit. The adventurous and curious are welcome to overnight in a yurt on the rooftop or in the courtyard. There is also a heritage room in the basement, which in the olden days functioned as ab anbar (water cistern) storage. The best budget option in Tehran. $–$$
Marlik Hotel (84 rooms) 61 Somayeh Intersection, South Mofateh St; 021 88328001–9; firstname.lastname@example.org; www.en.marlikhotel.ir. Opened in 1963, this classically furnished hotel was fully renovated in 2010 and offers impeccable rooms decorated with an exuberant style. Located conveniently in central Tehran a few hundred metres from Taleghani metro station, a large neon sign makes it unmissable. $$$
Where to eat and drink
[Updated 8/4/2018] p. 88–9:
Sam Café 1 Fereshteh St; 021 22653842; email@example.com; www.samcafe.ir; 09.00–22.00 This new fashionable and glitzy café is located in the upmarket Fereshteh district (with branches in Vanak and Shahrak-e Garb) and is very popular with middle-class Tehranis. Mainly Western-inspired coffee, drinks, meals and atmosphere, but the quality o food served is excellent and worth the price tag. $$–$$$
Café Tehroon 39 Khosrow Alley, Nejatollah (Vila) St; 021 88906813; 08.30–22:30 daily. Previously located in Negarestan Garden, this cosy restaurant embodies the spirit of old Tehran and homemade cooking. You can enjoy the dish of the day in the café’s leafy outdoor courtyard or at one of its indoor tables while ooking through one of the numerous books. Kashk-e bademjan, an aubergine dish, or kuku sabzi, a herb-based frittata, are particularly recommended. There are also music performances and cultural events held regularly. $–$$
Cafe Russia 021 88978752–3; www.cafe-russia.com; 08.00–midnight daily) As the name suggests, this new restaurant serves traditional Russian food, including pelmeni, to the accompaniment of Russian music. The outdoor terrace (heated in winter) unto the busy Fatemeh Square is cosy and comfortable. It is a good place to drop in for coffee and cake. $–$$
Cluna www.cluna.ir A new chain of (more than 13) cafés similar to British Pret-A-Manger chain which has become a household name in Tehran over the past two years. The coffee is excellent, the prepacked sandwiches are healthy and there is a good selection of organic snacks and desserts at very reasonable prices. $
[Updated 8/4/2018] p. 89: One of the nicest shopping centres in Tehran, the Shahid Gandhi Shopping Centre, is not presently in its best shape or form. A few boutiques, including Nazanin Karimi’s designer clothes store (www.nazaninkarimi.com) and Monsoon Restaurant (021 88791982–3; 08.00–noon & 15.00–23.00;$$) have moved to Ava Shopping Centre (under construction) and Arg Food Court in Tajrish Square respectively. Godot Café is still up and running and will undoubtedly resist competition from the number of flashy cafés recently opened by its side on both levels of the shopping centre. Art Center, formerly in the Niavaran Palace Complex has also closed down and moved to the Art Center Garden (145 North Salimi St, Andarzgoo). For books and stationery, Book Land (3rd floor; Paladium Shopping Centre; 22997714) has an excellent selection, including some English-language books. Tavazo (22282299; 22284499; www.tavazo.com) has branches all over Tehran and beyond and offers a wide range of traditional Iranian sweets and nuts, the best souvenir to take back home.
[Updated 8/4/2018] Following the death of Akbar Hashemi Rafsanjani, former president of Iran, in 2017, Niayesh Boulevard has been renamed in his honour. However, not all street signs have been updated to date.
Where to stay and eat
[Updated 8/4/2018] p. 107: Alamut Eco Lodge (10 rooms; 45 beds) Shahrak village, 028 58389266; 910 0473103; firstname.lastname@example.org. Opened in 2014, this cosy and rustic guesthouse is probably the best accommodation option in the area. Atmospheric, rooms are traditionally decorated with locally made furniture and grouped around an inner courtyard. The guesthouse also runs a traditional restaurant with fresh, homemade food. Try local picked cherries. $$
[Updated 8/4/2018]: Gate of Alamut 0912 7821562; www.gateofalamut.com; www.assassinsinalamut.com. Run by the only official guide in the area, Hosein Farhady (0912 7821562), Gate of Alamut offer an extensive range of trip options including camping, trekking and canyoning. While Hosein himself accompanies tourists on most routes, there is always another professional and certified guide present on the more complex and intensive paths. Highly recommended.