In Britain, we’re so used to complaining about the weather forecast we often forget just how accurate it generally is – and Devon is no exception. However, most visitors have access to a television or at least a radio or some online device, so you just need to plan ahead for wet days. I know people who set out determinedly, booted and waterproofed, into horizontal rain but I’m not one of them. Devon has some of the best walking country in England and it deserves to be seen through slanting sunshine, not slanting rain. For wet days there are some wonderful country houses, excellent museums and other interesting indoor attractions. Even zoos and wildlife parks can be rewarding on a rainy day, because the animals also hate rain so tend to come inside, nearer the viewer, if they have that option.
The Gnome Reserve
© Hilary Bradt
The little fellows deserve their reserve; after all there are over 2,000 of them, dotted around the dark mossy woods and involved in every activity you can imagine. You’ll find them cycling, skateboarding, wielding a tennis racket, a javelin or a violin and riding anything that moves: a bicycle, aeroplane, duck, pig, and a snail (at least I think it’s a snail). There are two gnomes on their potties, mooning at delighted children, and one luxuriating in his bath. All in all they are having a wonderful time, and visitors are expected to play their part. You are greeted by the indefatigable owner, Ann Atkin, who asks you to select an ‘almost compulsory hat’ to wear as you tour the garden. Trained as an artist, she has been collecting gnomes since 1979 and it remains a family concern, with her daughter-in-law Marg baking the scones for the cream tea that any visitor should indulge in before going gnome.
© Kents Cavern
I’ve had quite a few depressingly commercial and dumbed-down cave experiences and feared that Kents Cavern would be all entertainment and no education. Well, I was wrong. It’s wonderful! The prize find at the cavern was a fragment of Homo sapiensjaw bone which was recently dated to almost 40,000 years ago, making it the oldest fossil of modern man found in Britain. We learned about William Pengelly, the first cave scientist, and his work excavating and identifying the bones found here. There’s a model of the great man, frock coat and all, which highlights the difficulty of maintaining Victorian decorum in these conditions. Among the animal remains found in the cave were the teeth of woolly mammoth and scimitar-toothed cat, as well as a large number of hyena bones. The stalactites and stalagmites are a real gem, too – and knowing that it took them 60,000 years to get that way adds to one’s appreciation.
One thing to make clear: Seaton Jurassic isn’t Jurassic Park. Tyrannosaurus rex doesn’t stalk the corridors nor does velociraptor terrify visitors in the toilets. It is as much about survival as it is about extinction as it takes you on a journey through time, over land and under water, celebrating the fact that Seaton is unique on the Jurassic Coast in that you can see in one place all three components of the Mesozoic period: the Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous eras. And it celebrates the great landslide of 1839 which exposed these rocks and so excited the Victorian geologists of the time. It’s absolutely terrific!
Quince Honey Farm
© Mackintosh, Flickr
You can’t judge a book by its cover. This garish building on South Molton’s main road houses a truly amazing exhibition. If you thought you knew quite a bit about bees you will find that you have only scratched the surface. Here you will learn about the history of bee keeping, going back some 10,000 years; the different species of bees; and where and how they make their homes in other parts of the world. There are observation hives that you can open yourself (by remote control), films, explanatory panels, and bees everywhere, but always behind glass. You can watch the various stages of the commercial aspect of bee keeping, from candle-making to extracting the honey and bottling it, and you can learn a great deal about these remarkable creatures.
Dartmoor Otters and Buckfast Butterflies
The butterfly centre was founded in 1984 by David and Sue Field, who added the otter part in 1988 because of the proximity of the river Dart. ‘It seemed an obvious thing to use this in some way. Originally we wanted to divert a stream to run through the grounds to create otter pools but this wasn’t permitted, so the water is pumped out and in each day so they are swimming in river water.’
© Otters and Butterflies
Even on a gloomy autumn day there were plenty of eye-catching butterflies in evidence, including my favourite, the brilliant blue Amazonian morpho, but Sue told me that they are far more active on bright, warm days. More easily studied are the rows of chrysalises attached to bamboos, showing the range of colours and sizes of these pre-butterflies. Otters, on the other hand, are completely protected from the elements by their thick, waterproof fur, and are particularly active before feeding times: 11.30, 14.00 and 16.00. There are three species here, North American, Asian short-clawed and British, all displaying different characteristics.
The Bakelite Museum
© Hilary Bradt
In a corner of a Somerset village, crammed into every possible space in a 17th-century mill, is this higgledy-piggledy collection of plastic objects. Once you start collecting plastic where do you stop? You don’t, you just run out of room. It’s utterly delightful because it’s so different: rows and rows of hairdryers, typewriters, Barbie dolls, telephones, irons, kettles, sewing machines, games, clocks, fridges, radios – lots of radios – and televisions. Because, for us oldies, that’s what Bakelite is all about. If we didn’t own a Bakelite radio ourselves, our parents or grandparents certainly did. And, let’s face it, compared with most museums the objects here are not intrinsically beautiful or old; that’s the whole appeal. It was while I was contemplating the advantages and disadvantages of the plastic coffin that I heard an excited ‘Wow!’ from a youngster at some discovery. Kids who are bored out of their minds at conventional museums love this place, as do their grandparents. ‘Thank you for letting Grandad and me relive our memories’ I heard as they left, but it sounded as though the pleasure had been mutual.
© Pennywell Farm
Forget conservation and endangered species, this hands-on animal place is just that – its aim is to bring humans and animals as close together as possible and as such it offers one of Devon’s most rewarding experiences for children. Just look at the expression of a little girl gently stroking a tiny dozing piglet, and you’ll see how well it works. Or sometimes doesn’t: the squeals of disgruntled piglets can be heard from far off, but whenever a baby cries there are nursemaids – or nursemen – on hand to take it back for a soothing word or two.
South Devon Chilli Farm
If you use your satnav to take you from Exeter to Kingsbridge or Salcombe, you’ll follow increasingly narrow lanes until you reach the village of Loddiswell. Shortly before the village a sign on the left announces ‘South Devon Chilli Farm’. Stop and take a look – it’s a great place. And unique.
© Gavin, Flickr
The farm has around 140 varieties of chilli, with perhaps 20,000 plants growing in greenhouses and poly tunnels. Visitors are welcome to visit the show tunnel and see the different varieties. The farm shop sells plants and a huge range of chilli products including chilli chocolate, made on the premises, which is addictive after the initial shock. There is an onsite café serving food for all tastes with indoor and outdoor seating offering fine views over the South Hams countryside, and in 2013 they added a plant nursery for customers to browse through. They also have a chilli-themed play area for children (including a chilli tractor).
These splendid gardens are a mini-Kew with glass houses for different climates – arid, temperate and tropical – plus a palm house which is actually older than Kew’s (it was built in 1820). There is also a super Countryside Museum so even if it’s pouring with rain, as it was when I last visited, there’s plenty of undercover enjoyment including a good restaurant.
Read more in Hilary's Slow Travel Devon series: