Morocco: General update June 2011
Overall, in the past three years, Morocco has become more modern, more expensive, more European and for all its efforts, cleaner and easier in which to travel. It might be argued that it's lost some of its exoticism, possibly even charm, but that opinion could be a western patronisation. For many Moroccans, life appears to have become better, even if the tourists sense a loss of sorts.
Much of the improvement has been due to the efforts of the King, Mohammed VI, a young and popular figure in the political world. Although his plans to bring 10 million tourists into the country by 2010 haven't quite been realised (due to the international recession, say the locals), he remains prominent in enhancing the lives of his people. The King has been trying to pre-empt the unrest of the Arab Spring prevalent in the other Maghreb nations by continuing his reforms. He's certainly helped by his subjects' affection, and his pictures are still seen in cafes and restaurants throughout the town.
The bombing of 28 April, 2011 in the Djemaa el Fna in Marrakech, which killed at least 16 people, upset the locals almost more than the international community. The Marrakchis seem to be even nicer to the tourists than before. The same caveats of watching out for pickpockets or not being sucked in by opportunistic salesmen still apply, but in general the atmosphere is friendly and conciliatory. Protests in the main square appeared initially scary, but visitors were being told the banners and gatherings were against the extremists rather than in sympathy with them.
Marrakech
The continuing modernisation of the city is evident from the moment of arrival, with the dramatic new airport and train station. New architecture doesn't come cheap and with the higher prices, the city doesn't offer as many bargains as it once did. It's now hard to find a meal for less than MAD100, approximately £8.00. 
A new on-off tourist bus (www.city-sightseeing.com) has been introduced with 24 or 48 hour tickets (for MAD130dirham - £10.50, or MAD200 - £16). Although it can't enter the labyrinth of the Medina, it's still a handy way of getting around. If plans include visiting sites outside the ancient city, such as the Majorelle Gardens and the Palmeraie, the bus is very useful and can save a lot on taxi fares (also no longer inexpensive). Most of the hotels just outside the Medina are on its route.
Essaouira
This charming, coastal town of Essaouira is about two and a half hours drive west of Marrakech and now becoming almost an extension of the larger city. Within the ancient walls, the changes are mostly confined to an increased number of riads (courtyarded houses converted to small hotels) and a lot more Italian restaurants. Outside, along the long sweep of the bay and sandy beach, big hotels are multiplying. Prices are reasonable, although more than they once were.
Agadir
As if there weren't already enough grand hotels along the eight-kilometre beach, construction of tourist accommodation continues apace. A new marina now fronts the northern side of the bay. Outside the visitor stretch, the city is growing quickly with new buildings popping up everywhere. Fortunately, the architects have realised that Morocco design is a legitimate style, and the latest complexes are much more interesting than the old. Nevertheless, unless taking the bus to or from Agadir (for example from Marrakech or Essaouira), there no need to go into the non-tourist sector.
Taghazoute
North of Agadir, holiday villages are springing up along other beautiful stretches of Atlantic coast. The surfer town of Taghazoute is much larger than before, but has managed to retain its low-key ambiance. It looks like a lot more fun than Agadir if local hangouts and funky bars are more your speed, rather than English pubs, fancy nightclubs and flashy discos.
Fes
Although Volubilis, Morocco's best Roman site, is closer to Meknes, Fes, about one and a half hour's drive away, has a lot more to offer the tourist. With its ancient Medina full of traditional artisans protected by UNESCO,
Fes is almost taking over from Marrakech in terms of offerings to visitors searching for Moroccan culture. Even though the place is somewhat artificially preserved, it still has an authentic feel that's fading from the bigger city. While visitors to Marrakech's narrow Medina streets have to watch out for speeding mopeds, the only non-human traffic hazards in Fes's equivalents are mules and donkeys, carrying wares. Fes is not immune to growth, however, and within the historic centres riads and dars (guesthouses without central gardens) are popping up aplenty. Outside, the metropolis's wealth is evident, with modern buildings lining the garden-graced streets. A brand new railway station is similar in style to Marrakech's although in its own local colours.
Meknes
Still an imperial city, Meknes holy and secular attractions remain virtually the same, but now the main square, similar to Marrakech's Djemaa el Fna, is lined with cafes and restaurants. Hawkers constantly approach visitors with menus.
Volubilis
The country's most impression Roman site, and Juba II's dream city is even more of a ruin than before. Nothing has been improved, although the makeshift cafe, closed when last visited, is open again. The modern complex under construction at the bottom of the hill, which I was told last time would be a hotel, is now going to be a museum and research centre. Its iron struts are rusting and despite all assurances that 'it will be open soon', nothing new seems to have been done. The Volubilis Inn (www.hotelvolubilisinn.com) overlooking the remains, is still the best place to stay if visiting the ruins is the sole concern.
Luxury Morocco
My accommodation experience in the past has ranged from camping on the floor with three other people to sleeping in the desert, so this time, I tried the luxury route. Morocco has some stunning places to spend the night and I thought I'd sample a few.
Marrakech: Sofitel Palais Imperial
www.sofitel.comThe city's most famous hotel is the legendary Mamounia, but there is increasing competition. Sofitel's 5-star plus contribution is impressive. A massive complex, complete with spa and nightclub, the most noted feature are the enormous swimming pools, one heated one not, and the leisure areas around them. On clear days, the snow-covered Atlas Mountains hover behind.
Essaouira: Sofitel Medina and Spa
www.sofitel.comThis modern, two-toned rose-coloured hotel sits along the beach, just outside the city walls. The colours look more at home in pink Marrakech than in blue and white Essaouira, but the place is elegantly simple. The service doesn't quite match up the Sofitel's Marrakech hotel, but the decor is more contemporarily pleasing.
Agadir: Sofitel Royal Bay
www.sofitel.comCurrently at the end of the beach (other places are under construction further south), this enormous hotel is aging fairly well. Spaces are vast, with a very large central lobby - good for traditional musicians - and a gigantic swimming pool complex. The service is very friendly without being obsequious. Facilities are comprehensive, which is good as there's not much worth seeing outside the hotel (although the seashore - with Sofitel's private area - is reasonable).
Fes: Palais Amani
www.palaisamani.com be patient - the site takes a while to load
Said to be one of the three best places to stay in Fes, this former private mansion, renovated in the 1920s, has been redone in the past couple of years to the highest standard. Expensive, but worth it, this 14-room riad has kept the intricate tile and wood details but has up-to-date features such as sunflower showerheads and wifi throughout. With a meticulously kept central garden with fountain, and a superb restaurant worth mentioning in its own right, there's enough to keep the guest occupied within the hotel. It would be a pity to stay inside, though, as just beyond the huge wall that hides the Palais's location, is the fascinating world of Fes.