Niger : Updates
The 'north' of Niger - April 2008
Since February 2007, a new rebellion has started by the MNJ (Nigerien Movement for Justice). In many ways it seems like a revival of the Tuareg rebellion of the '90s (see pages 176, and 182-3), but the MNJ claim to be multi-ethnical, and rebelling for a national cause. They invite the government to open up negotiations concerning issues lingering since the peace accords were signed in 1996. Apart from that, the MNJ also accuse the government of widespread corruption. Meanwhile, the government refuses to recognise the MNJ as a movement of rebels. They are rather referred to as ‘armed bandits and smugglers’.
Over the last year, there have been outbreaks of violence between the MNJ and the army in the region Agadez, mainly between Agadez and Arlit, and in parts of the Aïr mountains.
As a result of the overall situation, the authorities have imposed a state of 'mise en garde' in the region. This means that arrests can be made on grounds of suspicion of collaboration with the MNJ, even when such is difficult to prove. Among the many arrests made are some Nigerien journalists, who are said to collaborate with the MNJ, and two French journalists who travelled into the northern region without official permission. Two radio stations have been accused of broadcasting biased propaganda, and they have been closed down by the authorities.
Also traffic in the region has been largely limited. Military escorts are compulsory between Abalak (north of Tahoua) and Agadez, and Arlit and Agadez. These leave only once a day, and not on all weekdays, causing long delays for all traffic. Tourists are not allowed to travel in the region outside these main axes, and the authorities do not give out the Feuille de Route (Route Approval). Even local people are barred from travelling outside Agadez at times.
With so little traffic within the region, armed robbers take advantage of the situation to attack travellers (coaches and private vehicles on the main axe to Arlit, and the very few vehicles who still venture into the region). This is yet another big worry to the local people.
In March, the army invaded parts of the Aïr in order to gain control, with little success. In return, the army robbed many civilians of their belongings before setting fire to their homesteads, and some civilians are said to have been tortured and murdered. The rebels seem determined to stay in control over the Aïr region, making this a definite no-go zone.
Agadez
This otherwise lively ‘gateway to the desert’ is gradually becoming a ghost town. I was among around two dozens of ‘white people’ who had not fled Agadez, since I did not feel in any way personally threatened in this whole situation. But life was very different from last year, as you can imagine.
While normally the tourist season sees hundreds of tourists arriving weekly, there are no tourists at all this year. All direct flights from France have been suspended, most tourist facilities have closed, and more generally trade has plummeted to an all-time low. In fact, many people are leaving Agadez to try and make a living somewhere else. Those staying behind (authorities and civilians alike) remain calm and comprehensive of the situation, and they all wish for this stalemate and the violence to end.
At this point, there is only faint hope that the 'situation' will be solved on a short term and that the security will be restored within the next few months. Only when that happens will the authorities and the tourist business be able to assess whether the region can be opened up for tourism again. Of course it is what the people of Agadez and the region all hope for, since the negative effects of a non-existing tourist season are deeply felt by the majority. No tourism has resulted in a chain of effects affecting so many people, who really depend on tourism one way or another.
Tourism elsewhere
Now if this is bad news, you should bear in mind that it applies to the north only. In all fairness, there have been a few isolated, serious incidents related to the rebellion in other parts of the country, but none of them target foreigners. The only exception being the arrest of two French journalists, who travelled to the north without official permission. The two were released and expelled from Niger in January.
At this point, travelling to Arlit along the tarred road remains possible, and all destinations to the south of Agadez/Abalak are open to travellers. So while the whole region of Agadez is off limits, there remains a lot to be seen in Niger.
Just a short recap of options: the River Niger upstream and downstream (including Parc W); the region to the south of Niamey with many wetlands; the southerly main road from Niamey - Birni N'Konni - Maradi - Zinder and beyond. Like Agadez, Zinder is historically very interesting, and it has some beautiful sites to be visited. A lively town at all times. For those eager to go to the desert anyway, Zinder could be the starting point for a trip into the Termit area or to the ‘far east’: Diffa and Lake Chad.
In September 2007, the yearly Cure Salée and Woodabe meeting were cancelled. However, many Woodabe festivities took place all the same and many Geerewol and other dances were preformed day after day. Though these meetings between lineages are always held in the region between Abalak and Agadez (hence where military escorts are now compulsory), the events were accessible for tourists without any problem.
However worrying the situation in the north is, do not let it discourage you from visiting other parts of this wonderful country. You’d even be surprised to find that the rebellion taking place in the north is hardly talked about in the southern regions. So really, you will find Niger as welcoming as always, with a smiling and hospitable people.
Visa
Should you decide to travel to Niger, do check the latest developments. Also bear in mind that getting a visa for Niger takes longer than before, as credentials are checked more rigourously. It is no longer possible to get a visa at the borders with neighbouring countries. Avoid travelling overland from Algeria and Libya if you can, though some travellers still cross the border at Tamanrasset. Contact a local travel agency in Algeria should you wish to go this way, as you will have to get an escort to take you from the border to Arlit.
Officially, it remains possible to obtain a visa at the airport in Niamey, but then you’d have to hand in your passport and pick it up the following day from the Direction de la Surveillance du Territoire in town. However, to avoid disappointment you are now advised to obtain your visa beforehand.
I left Niger only recently, so did I flee after all? Yes… but only to avoid the extreme temperatures and to go travelling to some other remote places myself! When the situation remains as it is, or – hopefully – changes for the better, I will be back in Niger a few months from now.
Jolijn Geels
The Netherlands, 28 April 2008