|
£15.99
Add To Cart Full product details |
Armenia with Nagorno Karabagh: October 2011 Update
Deirdre Holding
Yerevan
What was an excellent Tourist Information Office (main entry page 107 and referred to often throughout the guidebook) has been closed, apparently because of lack of funds. This is a significant loss for tourists. A new tourist office is planned for 'some time in the future’. The website continues but it has not been updated for months. However it still contains useful information. Staff are now housed in a government department. I was told that information could still be obtained by phoning the numbers given in the guidebook. If anyone tries these numbers I would be interested to know the result.
Another Yerevan number for tourist information is (+374) 10 542304
A new terminal at Zvartnots Airport is due to open in November 2011 so details of the arrivals and departures halls (pages 57 and 59) are likely to change.
A new wing opened at the Matenadaran (page 140) in September 2011. The display area is currently housed on the third floor of this building which is behind the original building. The entrance, plus ticket office and gift shop, is uphill through the metal gates to the right of the old building. After renovation of the old building the public display area may return to it.
The statue of Kara Bala (page 124) has been moved. He is now to be found near the top of Northern Avenue at the triple intersection with Terian and Hin Yerevanatsi Avenues.
Bureaurocrat is a new bookshop which has a good range of English language books (51 Pushkin St, Suite 26;
tel:+374 10 500 152; email: info@bureaucrat.am). Note that although the address is Pushkin Street the entrance is actually round the corner, on Sarian Street. (See page 79 for this quirk in Armenian addresses.)
Ararat Province
Khosrov Reserve (pages 158 &187) There are five defined trails within the reserve, three accessed from the Garni entrance and two from the Vedi entrance to the reserve. Tickets are now issued at the entrances. AMD1,000 pp if not requiring a guide; AMD15,000 for entrance, guide (including vehicle within the reserve where necessary) for up to 10 people. One is not allowed to take one's own vehicle into the reserve. It is possible to drive to the Garni entrance, on a sometimes poor dirt track. Follow the signs from Garni village.
Lori Province
Khuchap and Khorakert Monasteries (pages 209 and 218). It is now very difficult, especially for non-Armenians, to reach these monasteries without prior permission, which may or may not be given, from the Foreign Ministry in Yerevan. Consideration of any application can take a minimum of ten days.
The ancient path up the hill beyond the medieval bridge to Sanahin Monastery (page 212) is essentially defunct. During a recent attempt I encountered a path overgrown with saplings and brambles, a foul-smelling stream and what appeared to be a local rubbish dump. Use either the road or the cable car - probably the cheapest form of transport in Armenia at only AMD70 per ride.
Shirak Province
The Armenian Monuments Awareness Project (AMAP page 97) has opened a new Ani viewpoint at the village of Haikadzor from which a distant view of Ani can be obtained - binoculars and a clear day needed. The viewpoint is well signposted off the main road from Anipemza to Gyumri, although the sign itself, 'Ani 20km', is somewhat misleading. One cannot of course reach Ani; the viewpoint is 3km from the main road. Although the Haikadzor viewpoint is much more distant than that at Norshen (Karkov) (page 200) it has the advantage that it is freely available without the hassle of having to apply for permission from the Foreign Ministry in Yerevan.
Accommodation
Many nice looking motels and small hotels are springing up along the main routes throughout Armenia.
One such small hotel which opened recently is Hotel Gayane at Haghpat and having recently stayed there I can recommend it. Accommodation only is AMD7,000 pp; bed and breakfast AMD8,000 pp; full board AMD10,000 pp. The food is good (they make their own bread and have their own beehives) and the welcome warm. Even in the cooler evenings it is possible to eat outside, under cover, with the chill in the air being mitigated by a blazing log fire. Swimming pool for the summer. (Hotel Gayane; (15 rooms) Haghpat Village; Lori Region; mob: 091 611861, 094 240238 (Sophie).
Caution Things can change rapidly in Armenia and I know of two hotels listed in the guidebook which have deteriorated.
'Hotel Vayots Dzor', Yeghegnadzor (page 235) A recent visitor reported that 'the staff were drunk and a bit oppressive' and did not recommend the place.
Hotel Elina, Ijevan (page 222) I was going to stay at this hotel recently but found a significant problem with cleanliness and so changed my mind.
The new accommodation near Akhtala mentioned on page 204 seems not to be functioning.