Palestine – resilient, vibrant and delightful
Sarah Irving, December 2011
Being asked to write a completely new version of Bradt’s Palestine was an incredibly scary experience. Henry Stedman's 2000 Bradt guide had a near-legendary reputation amongst the small Palestinian tourism industry and its supporters. When I first went to Palestine in 2001, it was already like gold dust. How was I going to compete?
I thought my initial 2001 visit to the West Bank would be a one-off, learning about this tiny area of land and its political problems. I didn't appreciate quite how addictive Palestine can be: how its heady mix of ancient history, religious diversity, cultural richness, warm hospitality and scenic beauty draws you in.
My research trip to Palestine was an almost surreal affair. I knew a lot about the area, its main sites, how to get around it, its restaurants and fair trade co-operatives and mosques and churches and political organisations and graffiti and arts centres and refugee camps and bars. But how many people can tell a visitor the museum opening hours or hotel prices for a place they've lived in and become used to? To write a guidebook is to remember a different side of travelling, reminding yourself of every practicality the visitor needs.
In a place that changes as rapidly as Palestine, being as 
up-to-date as is physically possible is incredibly important. I was delighted to find that since my previous visit in 2009 community tourism projects had sprung up, allowing travellers to experience the richness of Palestinian culture and its enthusiastic welcome. The lucky visitor to Palestine can now stay in a wonderful guesthouse in the picturesque village of Sebastia, sleep in Byzantine homes, breakfast on fresh local produce and wander through Hellenic and Samaritan ruins. You can relax with local Christian Palestinians over a warming glass of arak in a cosy little hotel in Beit Sahour, near Bethlehem, knowing that the money from your bill will benefit women and disabled adults in the local community. Or you can hang out in the vibrant, welcoming environment of international hostels in Palestinian refugee camps such as Aqabat Jaber in Jericho, Deheishe in Bethlehem or Balata in Nablus.
Despite its reputation as a political or religious destination, Palestine has something to delight
every type of traveller. It has stunning landscapes that can be enjoyed on hiking or cycling expeditions led by community organisations or using newly-produced directions from local groups. The rich, varied Palestinian cuisine can be appreciated in restaurants in cities from Jerusalem to Jenin and Ramallah to Hebron, but increasingly through women's groups in Nablus or Deir Ghassaneh where visitors can learn how to cook luscious traditional meals. Jericho boasts stunning Umayyad mosaics, and the Ummayad and Mamluk architecture of Jerusalem's Haram ash-Sharif is breathtaking. For more contemporary culture, try the lively music of Taybeh's annual Oktoberfest or the film and theatre on offer in Ramallah's international arts venues.
Palestine is too often seen purely through the lens of its political problems. But ordinary Palestinians are an incredibly warm, resilient, welcoming and fascinating people, and their beautiful country can be a source of wonder and delight. I hope that many of you will join me there in the future.
Copyright Sarah Irving December 2011