A treasure trove of adventures, Macedonia is emerging as a top new tourist destination. With unspoilt mountains, lakes and spas, traces of old communism, and friendly hospitality at rural boutique hotels, it's not hard to see why. The wines are rich, the history steeped, and the culture varied. This remains the only standalone English-language guide to the country and the author shares her love of the country with expanded coverage of eastern Macedonia and its hot springs, rock art and megalithic observatory. For travellers with special interests there is coverage of the World War I battlefields, new eco-tourism lodges, food and hiking routes.
Contents
Introduction viii
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1 Background Information 3
Geography 3
Ancient roads in Macedonia 5
Climate 7
Flora and fauna 7
Environmental efforts 12
History 14
Government and politics 37
Economy 38
People 39
Language 49
Religion 50
Education 54
Culture 55
Chapter 2 Practical Information 61
When to visit 61
Highlights 61
Suggested itineraries 63
Tour operators 64
Red tape 67
Embassies 68
Getting there and away 70
Maps and tourist information 73
Health 77
Security and safety 86
Women travellers 89
Gay travellers 89
Disabled travellers 89
Travelling with children 90
What to take 91
Money 93
Budgeting 93
Getting around 94
Accommodation 97
Eating and drinking 99
Public holidays and festivals 102
Shopping 104
Arts and entertainment 105
Outdoor pursuits 105
Photography 112
Media and communications 112
Business 114
Buying property 115
Cultural etiquette 116
Interacting with local people 116
Travelling positively 118
PART TWO THE GUIDE 121
Chapter 3 Skopje 123
History 123
Getting there and away 130
Getting around 130
Tourist information 131
Where to stay 134
Where to eat 136
Entertainment and nightlife 139
Shopping 142
Other practicalities 143
What to see 143
Activities 151
Chapter 4 Outside Skopje 153
Where to eat 153
Horseriding 156
Mount Vodno 156
Lake Matka and caves 157
Katlanovska Banja 161
The old stone aqueduct 162
Pantelejmon Monastery 164
�uto Orizari Roma settlement and market 164
Archaeological sites around Skopje 167
Tauresium 168
Markov Monastir 169
Sv Bogorodica Monastery near Ko�le 169
Chapter 5 Lake Ohrid and Galicica National Park 171
Ohrid 171
Outside Ohrid 189
Struga 191
Galicica National Park 196
Day trips in the area 196
Chapter 6 Pelagonia, Prespa and Pelister 203
History of the region 203
Bitola 207
Pelister National Park and ecotourism 215
Lake Prespa 220
Prilep 223
Outside Prilep 228
Kru�evo 231
Demir Hisar 234
Chapter 7 Polog and Mavrovo 235
Tetovo 235
Popova �apka ski resort and mountain range 245
Gostivar 247
Mavrovo National Park 250
Debar 252
Outside Debar 257
Kicevo 260
Chapter 9 The Southern Wine Region 293
Strumica 293
Outside Strumica 303
Valandovo 308
Wines from the Tikve� plains 308
Kavadarci 309
Negotino 310
Stobi 311
Demir Kapija – the Iron Gate 312
Gevgelija 313
Ko�uf ski resort and mountain range 315
Lake Dojran 316
Chapter 10 A Dozen Hikes 321
Hiking clubs 322
Mountain hut system 322
Vodno Cross to Matka Dam 324
Marko's Tower to Treskavec Monastery 326
Demir Kapija to Iberlija and Kore�nica 328
Oktisi to Vajtos and Vevcani 330
Two Lakes view 332
Rostu�e and Duf Waterfall 334
Jance to Galicnik (Wedding Festival) 334
Biljana Waterfalls and Dolna Alilica Cave 336
Titov Vrv 338
Kriva �ija Waterfall 338
Mount Kitka 340
Brajcino to Pelister Lakes and Ni�epole 341
Appendix 1 Language 343
Appendix 2 Glossary of Terms and Names 357
Appendix 3 Guide to Wines of Macedonia 359
Appendix 4 Further Information 361
Index 372
Thammy Evans lived and worked in Macedonia for five years as political advisor to NATO HQ Skopje. Now she continues to work on development and governance issues at the International Security Sector Advisory Team in Geneva, Switzerland, whilst working on other authoring projects in her spare time. She has written the Bradt Guide to the Great Wall of China, and is currently writing the Bradt Guide to Istria. She has a second home in Croatia.
Customer Reviews:
Reviewed by: Elizabeth Vooght on 23rd April 2012 4:04PM
'We think they are the best travel guides, covering the less touristy destinations clearly, attractively and authoritatively'
Elizabeth Vooght, Thornbury.
Reviewed by: Peter Davies on 22nd December 2010 12:00AM
'One of the best guides I have used. I have bought a number of guides in the past. But this one has a really engaging writing style. It isn't anonymous and you feel that there is a knowledgeable and sensitive individual personality behind it. Keep up the good work!'
Reviewed by: Ambassador of Macedonia to Swe on 17th November 2010 12:00AM
'This book...is the best that has appeared on the market in the last several years and it brings Macedonia on the tourist map of desired destinations.'
Reviewed by: Paul Rank on 28th April 2010 12:00AM
'Extremely well written with good maps and cultural information.'
Reviewed by: Alex Stemp on 21st March 2010 12:00AM
'A superb read.'
Reviewed by: Maureen Taylor on 28th May 2009 12:00AM
'Firstly I should like to congratulate Thammy Evans on an excellent guide to Macedonia...this was definitely the most thorough and, moreover, covered the politics of this part of the Balkans in a sensitive and readily comprehensive way. Thank you for producing high quality guides of countries that are less well visited but are of enormous interest to the more intrepid traveller.'
Reviewed by: Annika Bjorkdahl, Ph.D, Depart on 16th May 2009 12:00AM